Roof Cleaning Precautions and Disclaimer

Roof cleaning

We take every reasonable precaution to prevent damage to plants, shrubs, grass and trees. We a team member who’s only job is to thoroughly wet down all plants, including grass, shrubs, and trees in the areas of cleaning. We may tarp certain areas that have delicate plants or items.  We will rinse any areas that the cleaning solution comes into contact with (House, Siding, Gutters, Windows, Patio, ECT). There are factors that are out of our control that could lead to plant damage. A few are: Clogged down spouts, leaking gutters, No gutters, and/or excessive/overgrown plants.

Things that cause the most issues with roof cleanings:
Gutter guards—Many gutter guards do not properly drain into the gutters and cause addition runoff.
Clean Gutters – Gutters not cleaned prior to Roof Cleanings. This is required. 

Things you can should do:
—MOST IMPORTANT—If you have irrigation, turn it on 2 hours prior to our arrival. This will help to keep the ground and plants saturated and won’t absorb the cleaning solution.
-The gutters MUST be cleaned prior to having your roof cleaned. If they aren’t clean prior to our roof cleaning– We will and a gutter cleaning charge will be added to your invoice.
-Move any potted plants and/or decor that is in the general area of the cleaning. 

Items we are not liable for:

–House washing- If you opted to not get your house washed and your house is fairly dirty—there is always a chance there could be some “clean spots” from leaky downspouts/gutters or overspray on windows.

– Same at house washing—if your gutter exteriors are dirty there could be vertical “clean’ lines in them after a roof cleaning.

–Plants/Trees/Shrubs/Grass- We take every reasonable precaution that we can with plants. There are occasions plants can get “burnt” from a roof cleaning. These plants usually bounce back but can take time—On a rare occasion could die. We are not responsible for damaged plants!

Roof Cleaning Facts


Roof Cleaning Facts-50% of roofs were replaced for appearance, but could have easily been cleaned.-90% of home owners didn’t know Roof Stains CAN be Cleaned.-Roof Stains trap attic heat and increase cooling costs up to 20%.-Roof Mold and Roof Algae spread down the roof, and can contribute to indoor mold and allergy problems.
Roof Stain BlockingAnnual Roof Application keeps your roof clean!-Gentle No-Rinse Application-Prevents Roof Stains and Roof Algae From Coming Back!Protect and Clean your Roof!
Roof Cleaning Process All American Window cleaning will remove the unsightly Roof Algae and ugly shingle stains and restore a sense of pride and curb appeal.WE DO NOT USE PRESSURE WASHING, AS THIS WILL DAMAGE YOUR ROOF! Our Roof Cleaner will use ARMA And RCIA Approved Roof Cleaning!Chemicals used actually kill and eradicates the Roof Algae and roots. These chemicals are water based, non-acid and contain no solvents.

Gutter Cleaning Tips From a Pro

At its best, gutter cleaning is a tedious and disgusting task. At worst, it can be scary and downright dangerous. One slight misstep and you are heading to the hospital with a broken bone and bruised ego,”
Ladder Safety: Always let someone know you will be using a ladder to work on your roof or gutters. Use a safe and sturdy ladder, preferably with a small shelf strong enough to hold a five-gallon bucket to collect gutter debris. Make sure to secure the bucket with a lanyard. We recommend a four-legged stepladder for a single-story home, and an extension ladder for a two-story home. An orchard ladder is not recommended because there are only three legs for support and they can become unbalanced.
Wooden ladders are not recommended because they are often wobbly and difficult to safely balance. Fiberglass ladders seem to be the sturdiest, but are also the heaviest. If you are cleaning gutters for hour upon hour, muscle fatigue can set in from moving the heavy ladder numerous times. If this is the case, you should try using an aluminum ladder, which is the second-choice option for strength and support.
Inspect the ladder for defects, dents or loose parts before climbing. If your ladder is fastened together with screws and bolts, make sure all parts are tightened. When opening up a stepladder, make sure the extension-hinge arms are fully extended and locked in place.
Before climbing the ladder, lightly jump on the first rung a few times to make sure the ground is secure. Sometimes the soil is soft, or there might be a gopher hole underneath one of the ladder legs. Either condition could cause the ladder to collapse under the combined weight of the ladder and a person. A piece of half-inch plywood can be placed under the ladder’s legs to keep it level and steady.
When climbing the ladder, always remember the “three point rule.” As much as possible try to have both legs and one hand firmly secure on the ladder at all times to provide stability and balance while cleaning. Conversely, do not lean out from the ladder, balancing on one leg while using two hands to clean debris from the gutter. It is often this stretching and reaching for that last scoop of debris that lands a person in the hospital. Lastly, if at all possible, have someone hold the ladder to provide additional safety while climbing.
Garden Hose: To use a garden hose with normal water pressure (30-40 psi – the standard for municipal water services), simply attach a pistol-grip trigger spray nozzle. This type of spray nozzle allows you to adjust the water pressure with just one hand and to easily hang it on the front edge of the gutter while moving the ladder, or while using a gutter scoop. This type of spray nozzle can be purchased at any hardware store.
It is generally best to spray out the gutter when most of the larger debris has already been removed. It’s difficult to spray out leaves and pine needles that have piled up over the summer and fall. Spray toward the downspout (leader pipe) so the small, murky debris flows down the downspout. If the downspout is connected to an underground drain that goes out to your street, the base of the downspout needs to be disconnected so the debris can be released at this point, preventing a potential clog further down the system under your lawn or driveway.
Gutter Scoop: Scooping out the leafy debris seems to be the best overall method for cleaning out the gutter. An excellent tool for this job is the bright orange plastic “Gutter Getter Scoop,” which can be purchased at most hardware stores. This tool is unique because the front scooping edge is very thin and it forms itself to the bottom of the gutter trough, making it easy to scoop out even the toughest of debris in any size gutter system.
Stay away from using a metal scoop because the bottom of the gutter and seams can be damaged. Scraping the bottom of a steel gutter can introduce areas to rust, and if the bottom of the gutter is already rusting, the rusting process could speed up. Using a metal scoop can also damage seams in the gutter because the motion of scraping can damage the caulking that seals two ends of a gutter together (called a seam).
An extension pole can also be attached to the gutter scoop for reaching farther to clean the gutter, reducing ladder moves.
Wear gloves: Gloves can help protect hands against dirty, rotting leaf debris that often contains bird, pigeon and squirrel droppings that are ridden with bacteria. Gloves can also prevent painful cuts from the torn metal shards of an old, ragged gutter. Cotton gloves can soak up dirty water that exposes skin to bacteria. Leather gloves are not as maneuverable and tend to shrivel up when they dry after cleaning. Rubber gloves can get poked or torn by metal shards in the gutter. Thick, suede glove material is recommended because it is superior to cotton, thin leather or rubber gloves.
Protective eyewear: Eye protection is a must because one never knows what might fly out of the downspout when cleaning gutters. People have experienced rats, birds, frogs, wasps and bees leaving at high speeds once they start removing a clog, and the last thing they want to have happen is an eye injury.
Rake off roof: Rake all debris off the roof first. Otherwise, the next rain will wash all the debris down into the clean gutter, clogging it up again. Also, debris left on the roof can lead to water damming up in valleys or around the chimney, which can cause erosion and roof leaks over time.
Rubber shoes: If walking on the roof is necessary to perform gutter cleaning, it is good to use rubber-soled shoes. Rubber soles tend to adhere best and prevent slipping and falls. Rooftops tend to be moist in the morning, so it is best to walk on the roof after the sun is well up in the sky and has dried up all the moisture. Late mornings or early afternoons are the best times to walk on a roof.
For wood shake roofs, an excellent option is to wear spiked roofing shoes, made by Korkers, which have small, metal spikes which help maintain a good grip when walking on the roof. However, if the gutter cleaning project is bad enough to warrant Korkers, it is probably best at that point to use a professional gutter cleaning company. Wearing Korkers can be tricky, and slips can still occur.
Downspouts unclogged: Make sure the downspouts (leader pipe) are clear. After all the gutters are cleaned out, run the water hose down the downspout at full pressure. If the water backs up out of the top, a clog is present. Normally, it can be unclogged by tapping on the side of the downspout. But if that doesn’t work, the downspout and back need to be removed, and it should be flushed from the bottom. If a clog is present, and the downspout is connected to an underground drain, it is best to disconnect the bottom of the downspout from the underground drain. Otherwise, the clog may move to the underground drain.
CAUTION: When unclogging the downspout, make sure protective eyewear is being used, because anything can escape from the downspout at high speeds once the clog is being removed.